Author: terraviva

  • EPISODE 331 TOURING The SLOVAK REPUBLIC

    EPISODE  441     TOURING THE SLOVAK REPUBLIC IN 1993


    alan skeoch
    may 2, 2021

    Find Gorbachov and Yeltsin…wooden dolls writing dolls in a market.

    Kevin rented a Skoda for our tour of the Slovakian Hinterland. A local car would
    keep us anonymous he felt.   So we would not be seen as tourists.

     I really wanted
    to see a collective farms.   We failed to do that.

    There is nothing worse than a tourist who thinks he or she
    understands a foreign country after a visit that lasted only a few days.  That was us.
    We made generalizations faster than a cat could catch a mouse.   The  pictures in
    this Episode are just the result of a fast visit to the Slovak Republic in March 1993 
    when there was still snow on the ground.   Pictures a little too much
    on the sensational scale.  Just enjoy them.  Do not think they express the 
    reality of life in Slovakia.  They are the result of a week end drive to the
    High Tatra mountains,


    Not everyone loved us…read  the Graffiti…”English Rounders” is not a compliment


    Here is Slovak dog we met.  Not too friendly with a muzzle made of steel.


    A rural farm…family owned I assume…not a collective farm in other words.  I believed
    incorrectly that we would see many large collective farms.  We did not.  The whole
    issue of land ownership has no simple answer.   I loved these old rural buildings
    but they were not the norm.


    Charming rural scene…but not usual.   Must avoid generalizing.  Busy streets with
    cars, trucks, busses were the norm just like any other country.


    As we began to enter the mountain country…heading for the High Tatras Mountains




    Yes, that is a New Hampshire hen I think



    “Kevin, stop the car…that looks like a collective farm barn..huge…must be
    used by many families.”
    “Dad, look at the roof…the barn is a wreck just like some in Ontario. This is not
    a farm.”

    “Kevin, pull over here. This looks like it might be a collective farm”
    “We are not stopping…there are people watching us from the far wall…must
    be a little careful.”
    (Sure enough there were people…men…maybe a problem, maybe not…we continued)

    the house is newish…but the storage buildings are ancient…potatoes, apples, whatever.




    Pictures often distorted reality.

    Charming village street.  But not the norm.  Most Slovaks live in tall Soviet built
    apartment buildings.   I should have taken a picture of them but did not

    March 1993 was not the tourist season…apparent here





    The sale of Soviet era officers hats at a market.











    Dolls made from fine woodwork and corn husks…very fine work.











    There seemed to be lots of castles…some in ruins, others seemed inhabited


    Here we are on top of the Tatra mountains.  Many Slovaks go up here just to go
    hiking along the peaks.   



    Kevin and Marjorie going up or down.  I was going the opposite way.  We took a bottle
    of wine with us for our top of the mountain lunch.  We were not supposed to do that
    we discovered.









    Second last picture…end of our Slovak adventure.   Too bad Kevin’s eyes are closed but
    I was not looking at him. My eyes  were on the woman in pink


    I think this is the best picture to use as a conclusion.  Generalization from this boys’
    face would be accurate.  We had a good time.

    alan skeoch
  • EPISODE 330 TENSION AT A SLOVAK DINNER PARTY…WHO WILL PAY THE BILL?

    EPISODE 330    TENSION AT A SLOVAK DINNER PART


    MAY 1, 2021

    THE SLOVAK DINNER PARTY



    “Dad, we have arranged a special dinner party tonight…for you…”
    “For Marjorie and me?”
    “Well maybe a few others…like all my fellow American School visiting teachers.”
    “How many?”
    “Probably 20…”
    “Where is the party?”
    “Sort of a secret, really. even I do not know where we are going… we will all take taxis to a village not far from Bratislava…a real
    Slovak village… with music and dancing and food and wine…the whole ten yards…All arranged by the gym teacher at the school.”
    “Big restaurant?”
    “No.  it will be held in a  wine cellar.  A place with no sign…a strange place, Dad…as you will see.

    (A year or so later the gym teacher came to visit us in Canada.  He and his wife loved swimming
    in our farm pond in spite of the leaches.)
    Slovakian signage was limited.  NO great neon signs.  These signs
    were found on top of the High Tatra Mountains .. for hikers.  We would
    go there for a couple of days.  But the big day …today … was
    the wine party …in a village in the dark.


    So we all piled in several taxis  and travelled  into the darkness of a Slovak night.  Not many street lights
    and soon there were none.  We passed through several villages…all shuttered up and dark.  No one on
    the streets … the village houses tended to have no front yards.  Direct street access.  Set back
    somewhat though…cobbled.  A few pin pricks of light escaped some houses but most were dark as
    a dungeon.




    When we reached our party centre, we were really non plussed.  No signage.  Just darkness and
    ancient buildings.   Kevin led the way with  a Slovak host.  Really secretive.  As if we would be
    arrested for some communist reason.  Like lack of respect.   Or flaunting wealth.
    Kev and our guide from the school hammered on a big round topped door…big enough for a cart
    to enter.  We walked through a couple of stone arches and then descended into
    a big room with a curved stone ceiling.  And lots of barrels.



    Perhaps you have not noticed that there are no signs…not a sign.

    “This is a winery Dad.  Slovak wines are special.”
    “Why so secretive?”
    “I don’t really know.  Seems to have something to do  with the socialist government.  Capitalist businesses were suspect of Western
    way of life.  So better to not flaunt the success of this winery.  But really, Dad, I do not know
    why having a dinner party seems to be kept  a secret.”






    There were  a whole bunch of people serving us.  We had one long table piled with food…Slovak specialities that I have since
    forgotten.  And wine.  Loads of wine in dark green bottles…corks  removed.   No labels on the bottles
    made me  feel this was out of the ordinary.   Wine was soon splashed around.    And a musical group arrived in folk costume
    to entertain us with dance and Slovak music.  It was a grand time.  The kids like Kevin seemed to need a
    chance like this to relax. Lots of noise and lots of laughter.  Great hurrahs  for the music makers.  



    The average age of the revellers  was 21 or 22…or even younger.  Marjorie and  i were the old folk and were treated
     nicely by both Kevin’s fellow teachers and to Slovak hosts.  It was a great party.

    Then it ended.  Abruptly.  The music stopped.  The hosts gathered in a little coterie with suspicious glances
    at our group.  Something was wrong.  Really wrong.

    “What is happening, Kevin?”
    “I don’t know…let me ask our guide.  He set the whole thing up.”
    (whispered  conversation then Kevin reported)
    “They are wondering how a bunch of kids like us are able to pay for the dinner and the music.”
    “They know teachers do not get much money.” (wage for these young teachers was $125 per month)

    I thought about the situation.  Marjorie and I seemed  to have special status.  Maybe we could get the 
    situation under control.  I took a quick look in my wallet.  Perhaps  $300 or $400 in U.S. currency.
    This party for 20 people would certainly cost that much.  I got worried but decided to be the big spender…the big shot.

    “Tell them that we will pay the whole bill, Kevin.”

    (Aside to Kevin: “Do  you have any cash ?”   “A little”  “Back me up then just in  case…”)

    What a change.  The music started with special  soloist in Slovak language.  Broad smiles
    all around.  Lots of looks our way …  smiling.   These Slovak villagers were not wealthy but they
    had put on a grand dinner party for the young American teachers all of whom were working for little
    pay and living wherever cheap housing could be found.  Neither the kids nor the hosts were
    in it for the money.  

     (Amusing thing happened with one  teacher who was staying with a Slovak
    family.  She got fatter and fatter because the family ate a lot of lard. Lots  of lard slathered on toast
    for breakfast.  She did not object.  She was a guest.)

    But my thoughts were centred on the bill.  Could I pay the bill?

    Yet!  Maybe!  I had no idea of the total cost of this extravaganza and only hoped I had enough
    cash to cover a dinner for 20 young people with wine and music.  What if I did not have
    the cash?   

    Surprise!  When the evening was over and it was time to settle up I got a bill for somewhere
    around $120 or $130!  That was all.  Included money for the musicians. Amounted to $6 or $7 each.
    And to top it off we were all given a corked bottle of wine.  No label wine.  No name on the winery…so
    I could never thank the hosts properly.

    Then in the darkness of a March night somewhere in rural Slovakia our taxis arrived and
    we drove back to Bratislava.  Village after village dark.  I don’t remember street lights
    until we arrived in the city.

    An unforgettable evening.  Wonderful.


    alan skeoch
    May 1, 2021
    (remembering a March evening in 1993 in 
    the new republic of Slovaks)


  • EPISODE 329 CELEBRATION IN PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

    EPISODE 329   CELEBRATION IN PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC


    alan skeoch
    May 1, 2021

    Our visit to the czech and Slovak republics,  March 1993

    PRAGUE,  CZECH REPUBLIC

    At least one group of citizens seemed very happy.  We visited Prague on some kind of special
    day.  FolK dances and folk costumes galore.  

    The Macdonald’s restaurant chain was a going concern.  Very successful. Partly because of
    the public washroom.   Long lineup.







    Everything we did turned  out to be a new Adventure…as  you will see in the next Episode 330

    alan skeoch
    May 1, 2021

  • EPISODE 328 HOW NOT TO LOAD A THRESHING MACHINE: stupid on my part

    EPISODE 328   HOW NOT TO LOAD A THRESHING MACHINE:  I WISH THIS WAS NOT DONE


    alan skeoch
    April 2021

    STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES, as Tom Hanks said in the movie.   The loading of our threshing machine 
    and tractor on Jim’s flat bed trailer was not a good idea.  One mistake and people could get hurt.




    Maybe you can suggest an easy way to unload the threshing machine and the
    tractor without danger.

    Andrew did the job but he was super careful

    alan
  • EPISODE 327 JAN. 1, 1993: THE DAY CZECHOLSLOVKIA DISAPPEARED…CEASED TO EXIST

    EPISODE 327    JANUARY 1, 1993: BREAK UP OF CZECHOSLOVAKIA INTO CZECH AND SLOVAK REPUBLICS


    EPISODE 327    JAN. 1, 1993  THE YEAR CZECHOSLOVAKIA DISAPPEARED…CEASED TO EXIST


    alan skeoch
    May 1, 2021


    A STARTLING AND UNFORGETTABLE MARCH HOLIDAY WEEK….1993

    “Mom and dad, why don’t you fly over here on the March School break?”
    “Is it safe?”
    “Perfectly safe.”
    “We read that Czechoslovakia is splitting…sounds like Civil War.”
    “No danger…the split is not violent.”
    “What will happen to you?”
    “Nothing, I will still be teaching English in Bratislava for $125 a month”
    “Are you still sleeping the jail?”
    “No…sharing an apartment in an Ex-Soviet building…only difference beween Canada 
    and Slovakia that I see around here is that nobody smiles much..except the students…they
    smile a lot…
    “Nice kids?”
    “Super….How would you  like to be guest teacher for a day in a Slovak High School?
    “Love to, Kevine…We are coming…sounds exciting.”
    “Good.  I will rent a Skoda…no one will know you are tourists.”
    (now that was a laugh…Marjorie wore her bright pink coat…No one else  did.)

    ON JANUARY 1, 1993 CZECHOSLOVAKIA SPLIT INTO TWO STATES…THE CZECH AND SLOVAK
    REPUBLICS.   

    Czechs and Slovaks did not really want to split   There were tensions between the two
    groups.  Many Slovaks resented the Czech dominance and general affluence.   But the
    resentment was not the kind that would lead to civil war.  Then why did the countries split?
    That was what they asked each other.  The answer in simplified form is that the two political
    leaders … a Czech and a Slovak.arranged the split even though it seemed to be against the
    national will.

    HOW DID OUR SON KEVIN BECOME AN ENGLISH TEACHER IN A SLOVAK HIGH SCHOOL?

    He needed a job.  Kevin had jus graduated as a Canadian high school teacher but there were
    no jobs in Canada.  At least he could not find a job.  But I am not sure he looked very hard.
    He was ready to venture into the world.  Wanted to do something different.  Then he heard that
     the American School (an international school) was hiring teachers for the Slovak school system.
    The wages were $125 a month…between $4 and $5 a day.  Money was not the incentive for Kevin.
    Adventure was what he wanted.  Young and full of piss and vinegar as they say.

    Eastern Europe was in a bit of turmoil.  The Berlin Wall had been pulled down. The Soviet
    Union had collapsed.  Many of the Soviet Republics were looking to the West…to the United
    States…for leadership.  The English language was seen as the key to fitting into the new
    world order.  

    Kevin was an English teacher.  Certified.  What a wonderful chance to be part of
    something bigger than himself.  He applied for a job…was accepted…and took off almost
    immediately for the new Slovak Republic which promised him free accommodation but did not 
    mention the room would be in a former jail.   He travelled blind along with a bunch of American
    newly certified teachers.

    Then in March 1993, Marjorie and I joined Kevin for a wonderful winter week in a
    place we had never heard of…the brand new Slovak Republic.   Kevin picked us up
    in Vienna and drove us to Bratislava.  We passed a large Slovak nuclear Reactor  that the
    Austrians felt was in danger of melt down.  That put a little extra tension into the visit.

    The Austrians feared this Slovak nuclear reactor was not safe.  No provision for the 
    retention of radioactive water in a containment pool was one of the reasons…I think.
      It was years later
    that another Soviet reactor became world famous at a glance called Chernobbyl.



    WHAT WAS LIFE LIKE IN THE NEW SLOVAK REPUBLIC?

    COMPLICATED.  Best answer I can put forward.  Life was  grim for many.  Some Slovaks were happy.  Some Slovaks were unhappy.  

    “Best not to smile when riding
    the Busses, Dad.  Most Slovaks are having a tough time right now.  Not much to smile about.  Many still believe
    that Marxism could have provided a Worker’s paradise. Problems happened when Joseph Stalin and Russian communism not took
    hold of Eastern Europe. “
    “Seems the bullets of World War II have pock-marked some of the buildings.”
    “That war …1939 to 1945 …is still part of the Slovak consciousness.”


    Why was this sign on this bridge in English?   

    We went to church on Sunday and could not help to see the huge ruin of a burned our synagogue next door to the Roman Catholic cathedral.
    That was chilling.  I wondered why the ghostly hulk was left standing.  Perhaps a symbol of the Soviet victory of Nazi fascism.   But I am
    not sure why?   Then there was a bridge with a memorial place engraved in English…also a reminder of World war II.



    Behind this overgrown scrub forest was a burned out synagogue as seen below.
    A reminder of the anti semitic terror that swept through eastern Europe in the 1940’s





    TEACHING HISTORY IN A SLOVAK HIGH SCHOOL

    “We have a guest  today,” announced the principal as we wedged ourselves into the packed classroom.
    “Welcome,”  And all the students…senior students in Grade 12…all of them immediately stood
    up and welcomed Marjorie and me with bug smiles. That courtesy does not happen in Canada.

    I do not remember what I taught on that cold March morning in 1993.  What I do remember, however, were the
    warm smiles … the joy the students seemed to feel … the hope they shared, hope that the West would change 
    their world.  The need to speak English.

    Take a look at their faces.  They were 17 and 18 in 1993.  Today they would  be 45 and  46 with teen age children of their
    own.  A really nice bunch of very typical high school students whose skills in English were very good.  Hopefully they can still smile the way they did in 1993.








    Elementary school students







    AT the back of the room, left to right, Marjorie Skeoch, VP, Kevin Skeoch, School Principal

    Principal of the Slovak High School in 1993




    We had quite a few adventures in our week.  Perhaps the most humourous was when
    Marjorie got mugged by a group of five or six older women.  Likely Roma.  They surrounded her outside a Slovak coffee shop
    where she lined up to go to a washroom.   Public WC’s were hard to find.
    wile Kevin and i were paying the bill.  Suddenly, Kev, yelled.  “Mom is getting robbed out there.”
    And sure enough the women were all around her in the line up which they used as cover.  Pushing…while looking
    away….distracting Marjorie while one woman slipped her hand into Marjorie’s purse and grabbed  her wallet.  Only it was not
    her wallet.  It was her glass case.  The women took off as Kevin arrived hollering like a stuck pig.  So the mugging turned into
    an adventure where no one got hurt…and five women were sharing an empty glass case.  Another group of gypsy women
    encircled me at the same time so Kev used back to save me.  I was in no danger…wallet tied down.

    NEXT EPISODE ON SLOVAKIA WILL BE AMUSING IN PLACES…STARTLING IN OTHERS.
    Difficult challenge:  See if you can find marjorie  in this slovakian crowd.

    ALAN SKEOCH
    MAY 1, 2021

    POST SCRIPT:  FOR ANYONE WISHING TO KNOW WHY CZECHOSLOVAKIA BROKE INTO TWO PIECES IN 1993

    BUSINESS & ECONOMY CZECH REPUBLIC POLITICS & INTERNATIONAL SLOVAKIA

    Why did Czechoslovakia break up?

    PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC – Last Sunday marked the 100th anniversary of the foundation of Czechoslovakia… a country which ceased to exist a quarter of a century ago. Which begs the question: Why did Czechoslovakia actually break up?

    On January 1, 1993, Czechoslovakia split into two independent states, the Czech Republic and Slovakia, in what is now known as the “Velvet divorce” (in a reference to the Velvet revolution) due to its peaceful and negotiated nature. Both countries divided their common “goods” (embassies, military equipment, etc.) on a two-to-one ratio to reflect their populations. Although the dissolution didn’t lead to any unrest or bloodshed, the new frontiers did create a few odd situations, like splitting border-towns in half.

    The split “was not entirely inevitable, but the political and economic costs of keeping the country together would have been extremely high”, pointed out Jiri Pehe, political analyst and former advisor to Vaclav Havel.

    The division of Czechoslovakia: an undemocratic decision?

    A widespread narrative argues that the divorce was a purely political move decided behind closed-doors by Czech and Slovak leaders Vaclav Klaus and Vladimir Meciar against the will of the population. There is some truth in that: all the opinion polls at that time showed that a vast majority of Czechs and Slovaks was in favour of the preservation of Czechoslovakia and against the country’s break-up.

    In its January 1, 1993 edition, the New York Times wrote: “A multi-ethnic nation born at the end of World War I in the glow of pan-Slavic brotherhood, Czechoslovakia survived dismemberment by the Nazis and more than four decades of Communist rule only to fall apart after just three years of democracy”.

    Although no referendum was ever held on the matter, democracy was indeed at the heart of the issue: all the problems associated with the federation of two states of unequal weight and size only appeared after the centralized, communist regime collapsed as Czechoslovakia reconnected with democracy. The decision-making paralysis and the federal government’s inability to push any significant reforms in the early 1990’s strongly contributed to the top-down decision of Klaus and Meciar.

    Yet, the truth is slightly more complicated. Although most Czechs and Slovaks wanted to preserve Czechoslovakia, both sides yearned for a reformed, mutually incompatible version, founded on deeply-rooted historical grievances and frustrations. And while Slovak nationalism sentiment strived for more autonomy, Czech nationalism embraced Czechoslovakism, mainly due to their privileged position within the federation.

    The “arrogant” Czechs

    Slovaks didn’t completely adhere to the concept of Czechoslovakism, which they often saw as a patronizing and paternalist Czech policy ever since the foundation of the First Republic in 1918. “The majority of people in Slovakia really considered Czechoslovakia as their genuine home”, Juraj Marusiak from the Slovak Academy of Sciences pointed out.

    But they wanted more autonomy, more control on their own decision-making and were weary of feeling that their fate was decided by bureaucrats in Prague (the federal capital) who looked down upon the less-developed Slovak “little brothers”. “Some Slovak demands – for example the modification in the name of the country – were ridiculed by the Czech media and understood as petty of Czech politicians, who did not appreciate the symbolism of such steps for the Slovaks”, Jiri Pehe highlighted.

    Despite having largely benefited from economic assistance from the Czech side during their common life, “resentment of what some Slovaks saw as a distant, arrogant federal government in Prague, was skillfully fanned by Mr. Meciar, a former Communist who saw the reviving Slovak nationalism as his ticket to power”, wrote The New York Times.

    The “ungrateful” Slovaks

    Czechs, on the other hand, felt like they were paying out of their own pockets for the economic and regional development of the poorer (and seemingly ungrateful) neighbor. Although Slovak GDP per capita had already reached roughly three-quarters of the Czech figure in 1992, “the animus created on the Czech side by these payments (…) was exploitable by ambitious politicians”.

    First and foremost, Vaclav Klaus, a liberal economist who wanted to bring the Czech Republic at the forefront of Europe’s liberal economic transformation and needed centralized power to launch sweeping and radical reforms. This explains why Klaus was not so keen on granting more autonomy to Slovakia and appeared, therefore, more than willing to get rid of the Slovak “burden”.

    Moreover, many Czechs saw as a betrayal the fact that, in 1939, Slovakia formed its own autonomous state which, despite being a puppet regime of Nazi Germany, was separate from the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia, under direct Nazi occupation. On the other hand, this experience of statehood empowered part of the Slovak elite, which perceived the restoration of Czechoslovakia after the war as a “re-provincialization” of the country.

    Similarly, many Czechs believed that their punishment and suffering were much greater than what the Slovak side experienced after the 1968 invasion – Gustav Husak, first secretary of the Communist party of Czechoslovakia, Czechoslovakia’s President and architect of the “normalization era”, came from Slovakia. czechoslovakia break up

    The aftermath of the break-up of Czechoslovakia

    After the split, both countries went their own way: “In the aftermath, M. Klaus pursued the rapid privatisations that made the Czech Republic an economic star of central Europe, but also created public resentment, as ex-communist insiders and foreign multinationals benefited disproportionately from the process”, wrote The Economist. “M. Meciar, meanwhile, tightened his grip and ruled as a semi-authoritarian strongman, slowing the progress of his country’s accession to the European Union and briefly making it a regional pariah, until he was democratically displaced in 1998”.

    The demographics also significantly changed: while the Czech Republic became an ethnically homogeneous country, Slovakia was still home to a strong Hungarian minority (nearly 600.000) and Roma community (between 300.000 and 500.000).

    The “Velvet divorce” has often been conjured to tackle contemporary separatist movements throughout Europe (Catalonia, Scotland, Brexit, etc.). “Policymakers wondering how a euro zone disintegration would play out could do worse than study one monetary union collapse that went well: the split of the Czech-Slovak currency union” in February 1993, even wrote Reutersczechoslovakia break up

    Czech Republic and Slovakia go their separate ways: what’s the situation today?

    Despite their break-up, the Czech Republic and Slovakia remain more closely linked than any other two countries in Europe. Although the dissolution was experienced as a defeat and a failure for many people, no one is seriously pleading for reunification. We should also point out that Czechs and Slovaks were separated throughout most of their history: their Czechoslovak “joint-venture” appears more as an exception than the rule. Even within the Habsburg Empire, Czechs were under the rule of Vienna, while Slovaks were governed from Hungary.

    Their relationship to their common past remains highly asymmetrical and strained by long-running prejudices on both sides. While the aforementioned grievances have something to do with it, more current grievances (like the fact that the Czech Republic cunningly stole Czechoslovakia’s flag after the break-up) also play a role in the enduring stigmas on each side of the border.

    Last week-end’s celebrations proved it well. While the Czech Republic celebrated the centenary of the foundation of Czechoslovakia in style and with great pomp, no event of such magnitude was held in Slovakia. October 28 is one of the major Czech public holidays to celebrate the independence and statehood… of a country that no longer exists.

    In Slovakia, it’s only qualified as a “memorial day”. However, to mark the centenary, the country instead decided to implement a one-off public holiday on October 30 this year. January 1, meanwhile, despite being the official “independence” day for both states, fails to have any real significance today: partly because neither Slovakia nor the Czech Republic want to “celebrate” the 1993 dissolution, and partly because it’s overshadowed by New Year’s Day.